And here we go again. The ongoing, and as it seems now, neverending, battle over the fashion week calendar and the “second Thursday rule” just got even more complicated as Paris’? Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture? has decided to pretty much pretend that nothing’s been happening and will keep its 2013 and 2014 show dates; a move that left CFDA president Diane von Furstenberg “speechless.”
?€?I don?€™t understand why Paris completely and totally just ignored what all of us have worked so hard on,?€? DVF said. ?€?I am speechless.? I just e-mailed [Chambre Syndicale president Didier Grumbach] and said that I was completely in shock.?€?
Grumbach, for his part, plans on sending a letter explaining his position to von Furstenberg, but for the Chambre, the decision came down to a matter of deadlines.? ?€?It was perfectly open and clear and very obvious that our members could not accept this…” Grumbach explained, referring to the previous back and forth between everyone.
“We fall at the end of the calendar, ” he continued. “All of the member houses agreed that this would make them very late in taking orders, which in turn would be penalizing for deliveries. It?€™s an industrial reason: you are a manufacturer, you need your orders early…Who wants to be penalized? It doesn?€™t make sense. We have had lots of meetings about pushing Paris show dates earlier as many brands really want that.?€?
In a board meeting presided over by Herm??s deputy managing director Guillaume de Seynes, members voted unanimously to keep? ? their show dates, thus flying in the face of the proposed second Thursday rule. ? For 2013, Paris will show from February 26 (a Tuesday) to March 6 and then from September 24 (also a Tuesday) to October 2; the dates for 2014 are (Tuesday)? February 25 ? to March 5 and (Tuesday) September 23 to October 1.
And in a case of that playground staple monkey see-monkey do, Milan’s? Camera Nazionale della Moda? president? Mario Boselli proclaimed: “We were going to move if Paris was also moving. As Paris is not moving, we won?€™t either.” He then stuck out his tongue, stole the CFDA’s lunch money and pushed London’s British Fashion Council off the swings.
So what does this all mean? Well, according to Boselli, in order to avoid any show schedule overlap New York and the CFDA are going to have to swallow their pride:? ?€?Perhaps the only way out would be for the Americans to reduce their fashion week to seven days, as nine days is too long, and start a couple of days after Labor Day.?€?
Now that Paris won’t change its schedule, neither will Milan, leaving London and New York on the other side of the aisle — and I wouldn’t be surprised if one side casually slipped out a stilettoed heel to “accidentally” trip the other on the march towards compromise. [WWD]